• Pique-Nique, Bermondsey

    I’ll start with the most important point: Pique-Nique does the finest chicken I’ve eaten in London, and by extension, ever.… Keep Reading

  • Knife, Clapham

    The really big names in London restaurants, the ones everybody knows, are all steak places – Gaucho, Goodman, Hawksmoor. Apart… Keep Reading

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Restaurants

Knife, Clapham

The really big names in London restaurants, the ones everybody knows, are all steak places – Gaucho, Goodman, Hawksmoor. Apart from a … Keep Reading

Restaurants

Good Friend Chicken, Chinatown (née Bigbe Chicken)

(Update, 25th August: Bigbe Chicken is now Good Friend Chicken, and has moved a couple of doors down. When I last went, it was much the same with an expanded menu and slightly higher prices of around 30p or so per item. The old favourites were still superb, but the squid, which I hadn’t tried… Keep Reading

Restaurants

St. Lukes Kitchen, Covent Garden

Library, or Lib-rary, as its website URL has it, is a private members club on St. Martin’s Lane right by Trafalgar Square and the Chandos pub. St. Luke’s Kitchen, its restaurant, has just opened up to the public, and as well as normal service, has a bunch of kitchen takeovers and guest chefs lined up over… Keep Reading

Restaurants

Blacklock, Soho

The thing you might already know about Blacklock is that it does chops. That’s its Thing, and it’s probably the first restaurant to centre itself around that concept in London, despite the plethora of barrel-scraping gimmicks and idiosyncrasies across the restaurant scene. I say ‘probably the first’ because I know that Whitechapel’s Tayyabs is famed for its… Keep Reading

Restaurants

The Grey Horse, Kingston

The Grey Horse is an unassuming pub a few minutes from Kingston train station that has been rebranded as a whiskey bar and barbecue restaurant. I was a little apprehensive about going, suffering from a sore throat and having had a pretty bad run of barbecue food over the past few weeks. A bit like hamburgers,… Keep Reading

Restaurants

Apollo Banana Leaf, Tooting

There’s a concept in economics that says when it’s difficult for consumers to tell good products from bad products before they buy, you eventually only end up with the bad – there is no advantage to selling things of decent quality, but doing so takes more work, so why bother? I sometimes wonder if the vast number of… Keep Reading

Restaurants

Brunswick House, Vauxhall

Brunswick house is a very strange proposition. The building has sat there since 1758, and for four of those years it’s been a perplexing enigma on my daily commute through Vauxhall. The area around Vauxhall’s bus station is a whirl of big, hard-to-cross roads, building sites, and soulless ugly high-rise buildings and offices, and despite… Keep Reading

Restaurants

The Joint, Brixton

My awkward relationship with Brixton’s restaurants continued with The Joint, a barbecue place in Brixton Village Market. I’ve written before about my biggest problem with Brixton: quite a bit of choice, but mostly in places that are outdoors which isn’t great even on a mild night. When we got to The Joint, I was a little annoyed to be moved from… Keep Reading

Restaurants

Flat Iron, Covent Garden

One of the things we’re aiming to do at Straight Up London is to create a useable guide to London: something that isn’t just interesting to read, but that is helpful for people deciding where to eat tonight. It’s why we’re putting so much effort into the food map (which now has 93 recommendations!) and generally try to emphasise things… Keep Reading

Restaurants

Dip & Flip, Tooting

Dip & Flip is one of the large number of middle-market hamburger restaurants that have swarmed like locusts across the city. This swarm is an unreservedly good thing, because hamburgers are delicious and just a few years ago it was very difficult to find anywhere decent at all. I wake up in cold sweats sometimes remembering the time… Keep Reading

Restaurants

Shuang Shuang, Chinatown

Since Christmas I’ve been on a cooking-binge, making spatchcocked chickens, risottos and chillis, mostly from J Kenji Lopéz-Alt’s The Food Lab cookbook (which is quite brilliant). Even when things don’t turn out as brilliantly as they might if they’d been from a restaurant, there’s something very special about making your own food. I think this is why I liked… Keep Reading

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